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mouting- screws from the *bottom* up

PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 11:36 pm
by frob
IPvFletch wrote:Don't the springs and some washers sufficiently act as standoffs??
Their purpose is really just to have something to thread the screws into and secure the PCB - screws go in from the bottom side of the carriage plate instead of from the top side of the PCB, thereby eliminating all protrusions on the top surface of the PCB. A picture here is worth a thousand words here - I'll post one when i get around to installing it properly :)

Re: ORD custom heated build plates: They're HERE !!!

PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 11:58 pm
by orcinus
IPvFletch wrote:Don't the springs and some washers sufficiently act as standoffs??


I think he means surface mounted (soldered) standoffs. Nuts, really.
They're attached to the bottom, so there are no nuts needed on the top.

Re: ORD custom heated build plates: They're HERE !!!

PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 12:16 am
by lx007
These look awesome! I can't wait to get one.

Re: ORD custom heated build plates: They're HERE !!!

PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 2:31 am
by IPvFletch
My plans for spring stand-offs will be like this (top to bottom)

Locknut
-Heater PCB-
Washer
Spring
Washer
Locknut
-ORD main plate-
M3 bolt head

All on an M3x18mm bolt... At least I think it will work out that way.. :D

Re: ORD custom heated build plates: They're HERE !!!

PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 2:56 am
by orcinus
Why the two locknuts?

Re: ORD custom heated build plates: They're HERE !!!

PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 5:36 am
by IPvFletch
The second locknut at the bottom locks the M3 bolt steady to the lower Hadron aluminum plate. This keeps the M3 bolt from being wobbly... :)

Re: ORD custom heated build plates: They're HERE !!!

PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 11:54 am
by orcinus
Meant the one on top :)

Re: ORD custom heated build plates: They're HERE !!!

PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 2:37 pm
by IPvFletch
Well, you need a bolt head at one end (in my case I chose bottom, could be top though just the same) and a nut at the other. The in between stuff isn't as necessary but I wanted it like this.

Maybe you don't really need a locknut on top, as the heater will just likely sit there due to its weight. But I was thinking it would be a good idea, plus I will be clamping a detachable glass piece on top of the heater PCB itself..

mounting....

PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 3:00 pm
by frob
IPvFletch wrote:Well, you need a bolt head at one end (in my case I chose bottom, could be top though just the same) and a nut at the other. The in between stuff isn't as necessary but I wanted it like this.
Maybe you don't really need a locknut on top, as the heater will just likely sit there due to its weight. But I was thinking it would be a good idea, plus I will be clamping a detachable glass piece on top of the heater PCB itself..


The top nut (or screw head) is necessary with other heaters but not for this one, as the nut is already provided, permanently soldered to the bottom of the board. This is to avoid having anything (like nuts) on the top surface of the heater. I will post a picture later, i'm sure that will clear things up. :)

Re: ORD custom heated build plates: They're HERE !!!

PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 3:39 pm
by orcinus
That's exactly what i was aiming at, IPvFletch.

You only need one nut.
The standoff is threaded.