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Warping on large prints

PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 3:24 pm
by endurance

I'm still kind of trying to iron out my issues with my printer. I am doing fairly well however with large prints I still get some warping, even with a heated bed. I have tried heating my bed anywhere from 50-100C but it still seems to warp larger parts. I am using blue painters tape and have tried using the technique of over printing on the corners but it doesn't seem to help. What are some techniques to prevent warping besides using a fully enclosed heated box? Could it be that I am extruding at too high of a temp? I extrude at 240C.

Thanks for the input!

Re: Warping on large prints

PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2014 11:42 pm
by evil2002usna
First off, I recommend printing on glass bed and not aluminum. I ordered Pyrex from McMaster Carr 8"x8" and my prints instantly got better. Also, tape gives me a nice matte finish on my prints, but the tape alone has never been enough. You should try using Aquanet Hairspray in addition to the tape with your heated bed up to 70 degrees for the entire print. Your prints will feel like they have been attached to the bed with deck screws and a high strength adhesive.

Re: Warping on large prints

PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 2:12 am
by cvoinescu
I'm not disagreeing, just wondering, why do you think it would matter whether it was aluminum or glass? After all, you print on the tape, not on whatever the tape is on.

Re: Warping on large prints

PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 2:43 am
by evil2002usna
The first printbed I ever had on my ordbot was a thick sheet of aluminum that I got from work. A couple things I found wrong with it was that it was not as flat as the glass I purchased from McMaster-Carr. Perhaps comerically available aluminum build plates built specifically for the purpose of a heated bed platform are flatter. I think the bigger reason is that I just have an easier time getting the tape off of a heated bed than an aluminum one, and I don't have to worry about scratching the aluminum which I was doing a lot with a paint scraper and utility knife blade.

Re: Warping on large prints

PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 6:37 am
by fma
Are your using abs or pla?

For both, I use 3DLAC on a mirror, and it works really great!

Re: Warping on large prints

PostPosted: Mon Jun 05, 2017 5:19 am
by 3dtech
Heated Enclosure

Perhaps printing is like cooking. Factors such as barometric pressure, humidity, temperature etc play a part in it. Or its just chaos at work! I will say I get much better results with a near air tight enclosure to trap in the heat and reduce turbulent air flow. I also insulated the top with bubble wrap sandwiched with mylar, added an exhaust fan to vent fumes and lights for show. The hot enclosure should allow the the print to adjust a little better with smaller variations in temperature. 3d printing gujarat - fdm technology

Rafts are essential, they really help hold your print down and minimize shrinking. Caution though if it sticks too well then your part can split. This happened to me before when I clamped my raft down with metal clips. Little to no shrinking but sometimes somethings gonna give.


For large and long prints I have noticed that printing with 20-25% percent infills help since there is less plastic and less shrinking force exerted on your print but just enough to hold the structure and the outer walls from distorting. If at all possible try to print with no bottom layers and see what happens, this seems to also reduce the curling. There are near an infinite amounts of shapes to print so it’s subjective but large prints like a map or something that take a large surface area on the build plate this seems to work well.