The eccentric spacers go in the 7.14 mm (9/32") diameter holes, and make those wheels adjustable over a range of 1.7mm or so. The other wheels are fixed. It is usually a good idea to put both adjustable wheels on the same side of the rail (in your drawing, turn one of your carriage plates around).
Depending on how far you want your wheels to stand from the carriage, you can opt to put the eccentric spacers on the same side of the carriage plate as the wheel, in which case you need a spacer of the same length (6.35 mm) on the fixed wheel, or on the opposite side, in which case you don't need the extra spacer. Here are examples of either configuration:
wheels flush, eccentric spacer on opposite side (it's not a standard plate, but the same principle applies); and
wheels 0.25" further from the plate, eccentric spacer on the same side, 0.25" spacer on fixed wheel (this
is a standard plate, but using a different set of holes*; note there are two washers between the eccentric spacer and the wheel, which is important).
Personally, I would go with the flush wheels, because they're more rigid, unless you need the extra space (in the second example, that extra space is needed for the Z leadscrew).
Tip: before assembly, put a dab of paint on the face of the eccentric spacer that's closest to the hole (or color it with a permanent marker). That'll help a lot during adjustment. ("Professional" adjustment devices of similar design often have one face textured, for the same reason.)
* The MakerSlide carriage plates are all kinds of smart. Besides supporting about half a dozen V-wheel configurations, they also bolt neatly to the sides and ends of MakerSlide and standard T-slot extrusion, and have extra holes for lead nuts, belt clamps and belt idler wheels.
Edit: Bart, the MakerSlide is horizontal in that drawing, so the wheels adjust as you intended.