frob wrote:i went to the webstore and could find no mention of this design anywhere, only a regular arduino board.
So it looks like they got in over their head and bailed. I wonder what happens in that case? did the money go back to the backers?
Yup i though of that, i've done a few modules already using castellations - which i really like- no flaky , costly, and space consuming connectors - and you dont pay for them when you dont need the option.Oli wrote:... I think it should offer holes for the stepstick / polulu, but also have SMT pads coming off these holes for a new design of board that uses a castellation array on the edges of the board. It would keep the normal holes for compatibility. That way the new board could be easily hand soldered into place and two large castellation pads could be used at each end for proper heat sinking to the motherboard, something the current designs lack (proper heatsinking through the pcb). It is unlikely they will ever need to be removed if they are the current limited variety...
I agree, especially since this allows me to power the board from the standby 5V rail and connect the remote power on-off control to an i/o line and monitor the power good signal. also the remote sense terminals will be properly terminated. The connectors are inexpensive - The only downside is the connector takes a lot of space ( the board will have to get bigger) and is only available as through-hole with very thick / long pins. I wish there were a SMT version. I considered making a custom lead bending jig to make it into a SMT connector but its seems like more trouble than its worth.Oli wrote:- I think it might be worth considering including atx power supply sockets. They are used as the power source in most builds and modifying connectors etc is a real pain.
. I have to go back and reread your PM on that - The FFC cable is available in standard lengths like 8", 12", 18" etc from Digikey and in stock for a reasonable price, $5-10 typ in small qty. Molex will custom make them for me even in smaller qty (like 100 pcs) for much less than that per piece price, typ less than $2, sometimes less than $1. Depending on the source and pitch, they are rated 1-3A per conductor. i am using 30 conductor , with 4 used for signals and 26 for power, thus 13A should be fine. probably more. Also remember once target temperature is reached the current is cycled on/off at a pretty low duty cycle, so even if a little heating happens in the cable, it shouldn't be significant. What i'm more worried about is the plastic material of the connector body, and how it might degrade or weaken over time, being mounted to the hot plate. that's partly why i like having it mounted backward and the cable sandwiched between it and the carriage so it cant accidentally pop open in use. I agree there isn't any major problem with using regular cable, i just find this option neater and a little more elegant so i thought it would be worth trying in the prototype. Eventually i envision replacing all of the cables with FFC, so i though trying a test case starting with the most challenging section was a good idea.Oli wrote:- I am slightly skeptical of the ffc type connectors. I know it would be a tidy solution and in principle a good one but they are not really designed for high currents. I guess we'll see. Costs on custom lengths of this ffc are what I see as another problem. I don't really see a big problem with normal low temperature / silicon cable provided it is routed correctly. I have another solution that I have PM'd you about
Oli wrote:Imagine having a single board that means that you can buy Barts kit, the ORDuino board for less than $150 and an ATX power supply to have it mostly complete. This would be a real winning formula. Very exciting stuff
frob wrote:Generally when we refer to PCB layers we're talking about copper layers, not the laminate/prepreg (FR4)
IPvFletch wrote:If the MicroSDcard slot is designed for the SDcard to float over the chips, how would you flushmount it and let the chips land on the aluminum to be used as a heatsink? Or is the MicroSDcard slot going to be on the BACK of the board? Also, how would you swap it out if it's hidden on the underside smooshed between the aluminum heatsink and the PCB itself?
Oli wrote:The LCD and uSD are two things that I feel quite strongly about, primarily because it will create fragmented firmware versions (with uSD support, without, with LCD support, without). For those that want everything else, including the bathroom sink, the standalone arduino platform is ideal - they can expand as they please. Truthfully, for those with LCD's / uSD, who has actually used them for a practical purpose? For everyone else, it will simply be an increase in board size and cost (albeit a small increase).
Oli wrote:In my view, the primary goal is to optimise to a single board and reduce cost - so we're left with a compact, low cost, elegant design that together with the Hadron will make the total build far more 'plug and play' and less of a rats nest of wires.
Oli wrote:Obviously though, this is Frobs build first and formost and I support his decision either way.
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