Dibloff's Build Log

[dibloff]

I purchased a Meanwell nes-350-12 power supply for the printer. It comes with a plastic strip over the terminals. Obviously it's designed to be placed in a rack/enclosure. Since those terminals are accessible to anyone's fingers I felt I need to design a cover for it.
The cover design is pretty straightforward. It slips on easily. The power cable is retained by a small clip and two screws. Try using the 1/2" long 1/8" self tapping screws.
There are two holes for 14 gage wires to carry the DC current out.

the power supply after it's printed

after cleaned up

the clip

I use two 1/8" brackets to mount the power supply the bottom of the makerslide.
Print the cover with support. I use slic3r 0910b. 70% infill, 2.5 mm rectilinear grid support. It takes 3.5-4 hours to print. Once it's cleaned use two M4x6 flat head screws to mount it. Because there is plastic in the clamp I put a dab of blue loctite on the screws.
This cover design is the latest after several previous iterations. The features where the M4 screws sit were reinforced with the ribs. Right now it is able to hold the entire Hadron printer weight by the power chord without snapping.

power cable installed

Power supply mounted to the printer

files are here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:220612

[dibloff]

I designed this filament holder a while ago. It was specifically designed for the octave filament being sold by Amazon. Off course there are various spools being sold today. This will accommodate many more types (like the one sold by automation technologies). It is used together with the filament guide. Te guide has a "NO GRAB" text recessed into it, so people would not lift the printer by this - it will not break though. Two M5x50 cap screws mount the filament guide to the top of the left side makerslide.

x-section of the assembly

Filament Guide

assembly installed to the Hadron

nut hub screw

To mount the filament hub on the filament bracket I use a 1/4-20 hex bolt 4 inches long. To prevent loosening I put a dab of blue loctite on the screw.
The filament nut and hub are joined by a bayonet type feature. You'll have to assemble the spool to the hub push the nut on, then rotate it clockwise until it snaps in. This will prevent the nut from rattling off. Even with a full 1 kg filament spool this balances well.
The filament holder bracket is mounted by four M5x12 cap screws. I drilled holes through the Hadron back plate and used the misumi nuts to mount the filament holder. As an alternative method you can drill and tap m5 holes into the back plate.

the bracket mounted

The bracket has 1/4-20 threads in the base. This will mate with the hex bolt threads.
Once everything assembled thread the filament through the filament guide's slot, then bring it to the front though the 45 degree hole.
The construction might seem complicated, but believe me this is not the first iteration. I've had long prints and when the filament spool is not constrained well and it'll run and bundle up the filament that is the last thing you want in a 27 hour print.

assembly completed filament in place

This worked perfectly for me; hope you'll enjoy it too.

source files are here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:220628

[cvoinescu]

Very nice! Thank you for sharing.

[dibloff]

Hi Folks. I'll talk about the Z axis brackets tonight. In one of my first posts after the printer started to work I mentioned that the tip of the z axis lead screws wobbles. I attributed the waviness of the vertical walls to this issue. I designed and printed brackets to stabilize the lead screws.
I used 8x16x5 ball bearings. The bearing will be pressed into the bracket to prevent it migrating out.
I'll walk you through the design iterations:
Here is iteration 1. I planned to machine it from aluminum. This would require an extra long screw to mount it. It's been sitting there for a while, and I did not make the parts. Later I figured I've got a 3D printer so the stuff has to be printed. Discarded this idea.

Iteration 2. This was designed to capture the bearing. It would snap in. This one actually worked. Pressing the bearing in required some force, but after it snapped in it held the bearing firmly. Then something happened and during the prints I've heard rattling sound. I figured out it was the bearing rattling in the brackets cavity. I realized one more drawback of this design: The Z gantry can be lifted only to 135 mm (with a 9” threaded rod). I abandoned this design.

Iteration 3. This is a modification of iteration 2. The position of the bearing is lowered therefore the features that connect to the makerslide are lifted. This will allow the Z gantry to rise to155 mm height. The bearing is being captured with vertical ribs, this prevents them to rattle, and I can use a bit higher press without breaking the bracket while pressing in the bearing. This design requires a 12 mm M5 screw and a HNKK55 nut (one for each side). This worked for me fairly well for the last few months.

You'll need to print the left and right sides. Use support.

The parts are here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:225131

[orcinus]

There's no need for those.

By constraining the tip, you're moving the oscillation peak from the top to the middle, between two constraints (bottom one being the shaft coupler, with the bracket you've built being the top). You'll only get worse results like that, or best case, more wear.

The real solution is to either replace the couplers (more than likely they're the true cause of wobble, because they're not perfectly concentric) or the lead screws.

[dibloff]

Selling a couple of my printers here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ORD-BOT-Hadron- ... 3aac3f574d

[jammer]

Hi Dibloff,
I have been meaning to ask what extruder do you have on your machine? I have been wanting to upgrade from my wades' reloaded.

Thanks!

[dibloff]

Jammer, I'm using a modified MK7, or QU-BD extruder. I've designed and printed extruder arms for them. I've sold more than 150, I've got some that are running for more than 2 years, so I have confidence in them.

[jammer]

Jammer, I'm using a modified MK7, or QU-BD extruder. I've designed and printed extruder arms for them. I've sold more than 150, I've got some that are running for more than 2 years, so I have confidence in them.

How much are you selling them for? So if I nderstand it right, I would buy the QU-BD extruder and hen modify it with your kit. Do you sell the complete extruder with a mk7 gear? Is the kit you are selling intended for 1.75mm filament?

Thanks,
Troy

[dibloff]

I'm not selling the extruder asm nor the components. I'm selling the finished printer asm.