Looking for a firmware configuration

[geoffs]

I'm trying once again to resurrect my Ord Hadron. Replaced a few faulty bits (thermistor, RAMPS board) but no longer have all the notes I made about firmware settings.
It would make things a lot easier for me if someone here could provide a Configuration.h.
Not too fussed about which firmware is used. I'm trying out Repetier at the moment but Marlins seems to be more popular/better.

Configuration is standard except for hotend which is a J-Head (genuine)

Appreciate any assistance here.

Regards
GEoff

[geoffs]

Someone sent me a Marlin config so I have somewhere to start.
Now the joys of calibration...

[fulg]

Hey Geoff,

I also use Marlin on my ORDBot, let me know if I can help. Configuring Marlin from scratch isn't hard, but the issue is that there is no real "standard" here, many things have to be adjusted based on your build (motor direction, NC/NO limit switches, extruder kind, thermistor kind, Z-rod type, etc).

Cheers,
Ben.

[geoffs]

Thanks Ben,
So far, the config I got from someone else is a good start. Comparing the values with the original ones mentioned on this forum, show that are haven't been changed a lot.
Biggest difference is the extruder. The config I received was for a Bulldog extruder whereas mine is a DIY direct drive model,(I think the original files came from bdring) - there's still a bit of tuning to do with this.

Usual problems with getting the print to stick but a new roll of PLA, a heated glass plate and hairspray seem to be doing the job. Blue painters tape is good but doesn't last.
I think I'm at the point now of just going through the temperature range to find one that works with my particular filament. There are some visual guides that are a help in identifying the cause of the problem but there's still a way to go.

Geoff.

Hotend mount http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:59855
Tensioner http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38281

[fulg]

Double-check your XY steps with a ruler over a long distance (say 100mm), the numbers will subtly change if you have GT2 vs MXL belts (80 vs 78.7402). For Z steps, it depends what kind of rods you had in your kit (metric vs imperial), again the difference is subtle (2560 vs 2519.68). Be sure to calibrate your E-steps yourself, don't rely on other people's numbers. I include a link to Tom's excellent video on the subject if you haven't seen it yet: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y

It can be useful to have an IR thermometer to double-check the bed temperature, and an external thermocouple-based thermometer to confirm the hotend temperature. Once you realize that almost nobody calibrates their readings, you start to doubt every number you see posted... Once you can validate your temperature readings, it helps when troubleshooting the rest! In my experience it is better for PLA to be too hot rather than too cold. I used to print at 185 because that's what everyone recommended but now I use 215, which works better for my brand of PLA (generic PLA from filaments.ca) and yields stronger prints.

Almost all of my initial printing issues (once configuration was complete) were caused by a non-level bed or non-level X axis, at first due to defective v-wheels (you could deflect the build plate quite a bit by hand!), and then simply due to improper bed leveling on my part. Since then I have added auto-leveling using a capacitive sensor, which has considerably increased the ease of use of the printer; I never have to re-level the bed and/or the X-gantry after every little tweak of the printer or the Z rods.

Hope this helps!

Cheers,
Ben.

[geoffs]

I have a problem where the bed starts to heat but cuts out after about 20-30 seconds. It seemed to be the fuse on the RAMPS board so dropped in a spare board, same thing. A third RAMPS board worked OK, what are the chances of the same fault on two boards?
Got frustrated trying to adjust the bed levelling screws so decided to make some new screws. As I had to take some things off to do this, I decided to do a bit of rewiring so the printer is now a stack of parts again! The rewiring was originally to tidy a few things up but I added some more Molex connectors so I can unplug and remove parts a bit easier.

I did find one problem with the heat bed that may have been the cause of the long time it took to get up to temperature. My heat bed is the original blue SOTA Lava bed and has some solder jumpers for different power settings. It was configured for 100W (12V) so I made the change so it's now 130W. This will be extra current but it should be below the 11A fuse value. I had a lot of trouble getting the pads soldered, I think perhaps it was put together using unleaded solder and the only stuff I have is good old leaded.

I hope to get it all back together tomorrow so I can start some more testing//calibration. Just the thing for a rainy Saturday.

Geoff

[geoffs]

It's all been pulled apart and put back together - no bits left over which is always nice.
It's much neater than is was as I replaced most of the wiring, proper crimped connector with colour coded heat shrink.
All tested and working, although I did have to make soem software changes to put things back to the way they should have been, originally miswired a motor and one of the limit switches so revered them in software, this is now fixed.

I do have a problem with the heat bed thouhg. It certainly heats up more quickly but the reported temperature is low - about half what is actually is . I have the blister to prove it ...

Thermistor measures 10K at 25 degrees which is is correct and Marline is correctly configure for this thermistor.
More here - viewtopic.php?f=33&t=2769


Geoff